are
the hat makers who make summer hats and winter caps for gondoliers.
The
summer hat, considered the ‘traditional’ gondolier’s hat, is large,
made of stitched straw and is similar to other European maritime hats. It
first came into wide use relatively recently: after the Second World War.
The
winter cap originates from an earlier maritime tradition dating back to
the beginning of the 19th century. Its appearance reflects that
of the fèlze. In fact the colour and the ball
of tufted wool are similar to those
of the rassa (the cover of the fèlze), which was adorned
with 24 large pompoms and 26 small ones.
Today’s
gondolier is a recently created figure. Until the end of the 1970s,
gondoliers were poorly paid and had to do other work during the winter
such as transporting bags of coal. The advent of mass tourism provided the
gondolier with a better and more reliable income, so that the job became
more specialised. This encouraged greater care in the choice – and
coordination – of the gondolier’s clothes, shoes and hats.
Before
this recent evolution, the term ‘gondolier’ referred to the gondolier de
casada (employed by wealthy families), for whom the ceremonial
authorities prescribed a sober dress code, making precise references to,
for example, the required number of buttons. In Venice, in 1281, the baretèri
and capelèri were already associated with other mariegole
or guilds of craftsmen who made clothes: marzeri
(haberdashers), sartòri (tailors), varotèri (furriers),
guantaie (glove makers)… They became independent in 1677.
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